Kook

Kook PDF

Author: Peter Heller

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

Published: 2010-07-13

Total Pages: 336

ISBN-13: 1439171815

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With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Rockaway

Rockaway PDF

Author: Diane Cardwell

Publisher: Houghton Mifflin

Published: 2020

Total Pages: 275

ISBN-13: 0358067782

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The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days PDF

Author: William Finnegan

Publisher: Penguin

Published: 2016-04-26

Total Pages: 466

ISBN-13: 0143109391

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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Wave Woman

Wave Woman PDF

Author: Vicky Heldreich Durand

Publisher: SparkPress

Published: 2020-04-07

Total Pages: 237

ISBN-13: 1684630436

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Wave Woman is the untold story of an adventurer whose zest for life and learning kept her alive for ninety-eight years. Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt was the granddaughter of Mormon pioneers who, after spending an active and athletic childhood in Salt Lake City, moved to Santa Monica with her family and enrolled at USC to study dental hygiene. Betty went on to elope with a man she hardly knew, and to have two daughters. In middle age, Betty finally followed her dream of living near the ocean; she moved to Hawaii and, at age forty-one, took up surfing. She lived and surfed at Waikiki during the golden years of the mid-1950s and was a pioneer surfer at Makaha Beach. She was competitive in early big-wave surfing championships and was among the first women to compete in Lima, Peru, where she won first place. Betty was an Olympic hopeful, a pilot, a mother, a sculptor, a jeweler, a builder, a fisherwoman, an ATV rider, and a potter who lived life her way, dealing with adversity and heartache on her own stoic terms. A love letter from a daughter to her larger-than-life mother, Wave Woman will speak to any woman searching for self-confidence, fulfillment, and happiness.

Surfing about Music

Surfing about Music PDF

Author: Timothy J. Cooley

Publisher: Univ of California Press

Published: 2014-01-02

Total Pages: 238

ISBN-13: 0520276647

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"Roth Family Foundation music in America imprint"--First printed page.

Beginners

Beginners PDF

Author: Tom Vanderbilt

Publisher: Knopf

Published: 2021

Total Pages: 321

ISBN-13: 1524732168

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The bestselling author of Traffic and You May Also Like now offers a thought-provoking, playful investigation into the transformative joys that come with starting something new, no matter one's age.

Surfing and Health

Surfing and Health PDF

Author: Dorian Paskowitz, M.d.

Publisher: Createspace Independent Publishing Platform

Published: 2017-01-22

Total Pages: 366

ISBN-13: 9781541034198

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Doc Paskowitz started surfing in the Gulf of Mexico on Galveston Island in 1930. He's 93, and he's still surfing ( now riding in heaven) While he would never agree, Doc can be considered one of the earliest pioneers of the shape of today's surf culture. He spent nearly 25 years on the road, living in a succession of used campers. It is, quite possibly, the world's longest surf trip. He and his wife raised nine children in those campers, soaking them in the ocean and their idea of how life should be lived. Take a trip with Doc Paskowitz and his family. This easy read is honest and can help you understand his passion for Surfing and Health,

Surfer's Code

Surfer's Code PDF

Author: Patrick J. Moser

Publisher: Gibbs Smith

Published: 2009-09

Total Pages: 194

ISBN-13: 1423611020

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In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to the business world today. For Tomson, surfing is a hobby, a sport, a religion, an obsession and more-it is a way of life. Tomson's life lessons have guided his career to the top of both professional competition and the world of business. Now, he shares these powerful lessons, born on the world's best swells, with all people-including those who might never step on a surfboard. These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of every day life.

Under the Wave at Waimea

Under the Wave at Waimea PDF

Author: Paul Theroux

Publisher: Houghton Mifflin

Published: 2021

Total Pages: 421

ISBN-13: 0358446287

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From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.

It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been

It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been PDF

Author: BJ Gallagher

Publisher: Cleis Press

Published: 2014-02-11

Total Pages: 188

ISBN-13: 1936740699

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Inspired by the timeless quote by the great writer George Eliot, It's Never Too Late to Be What You Might Have Been is a guidebook to getting the life you've always wanted. Written in best-selling author BJ Gallagher's trademark warm and witty style, this book is written for, in her own words, "Everyone who has let fear or busyness or any reason good or bad get in the way of achieving your highest goals and long-held dreams, and isn't that everyone?" Whether you are a brand new college graduate going out into the big, wide world, a business executive escaping burnout, or a 40-something mom looking for a 'second life,' this book is a wonderful combination of great advice, step-by-step guidelines, and pure inspiration to listen to and honor your inner voice and seize not just the day, but the rest of your life!