Women of Fashion
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher:
Published: 1991
Total Pages: 238
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →Explores the increasing prominence of women in the fashion design and examines their contributions to twentieth-century fashion.
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The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion
Author: Petra Slinkard
Publisher: Rizzoli Publications
Published: 2020-04-23
Total Pages: 162
ISBN-13: 0847868222
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →Celebrated and hidden figures from First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln's seamstress to Elsa Schiaparelli and Chromat revealed through their stories and most compelling works. Diane Von Furstenberg, Vivienne Westwood, Sarah Burton, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Donna Karan, and Iris van Herpen are among the great women designers to emerge in the last few decades. We now live in an age when no one would dare call them "that little seamstress," as Paul Poiret disdainfully referred to Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel more than a century ago. The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion highlights early innovative and contemporary designers working in a variety of materials and genres. This unique volume profiles widely-known early fashion vanguards such as Jeanne Lanvin, Callot Soeurs, and Madeleine Vionnet, as well as underrepresented women who revolutionized fashion from the mid-1700s to the present. More than one hundred works--including street fashion, ready-to-wear, traditional, and haute couture--celebrate women designers' concepts of dress and beauty. Through the work of more than fifty individual style makers, The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion illuminates issues of representation, creativity, and distinctiveness, as well as the labor challenges surrounding fashion today.
Fashion, Women and Power
Author: Denise N. Rall
Publisher: Intellect Books
Published: 2021-12-10
Total Pages: 228
ISBN-13: 1789384621
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →This book addresses the relationships between fashion, women and power. One of the constants within the book is to question the enduring relationship between women and dress and how these inform and articulate the ways in which women remain represented as either suitable or not for public office and their behaviour is informed through dress when they are in power. The book critiques the interplays between politics, power, class, race and expectation in relation to the everyday practice of getting dress and the more performative and symbolic function of dress as embodiment. As never before, women are in positions of political power, and find themselves facing the maelstroms of mass media regarding their fashion, their deportment, and their right to govern. The contributors offer a wide set of perspectives on women and their roles, and their fashions when taking up powerful positions in Australia, New Zealand, United Kingdom and the United States. From the United Kingdom, the historical issues surrounding the movement towards ‘rational dress’ for women seeking their rights to vote and exercise are interrogated. The volume also explores viewpoints from East Asia, such as the constricting role for ‘common’ women upon entering the Imperial family in Japan. From the United States come the troublesome media stories engulfing two significant American Democratic First Ladies, Hillary Rodham Clinton and Michelle Obama. From New Zealand, the media reports on Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern upon her motherhood while serving in the office and on her clothing during the 2019 Christchurch massacre comprise a much-needed contribution to the literature on women, politics and dress. Further, the role of dress in politics broadly as a form of resistance, will be examined in Australia from recent skirmishes over ‘appropriate dress’ with ex-prime minister Julia Gillard and other Australian female politicians. The role of women and what their fashion selections mean continues via considerable debate during worldwide events. Finally, the theme of resistance and social media continues with an examination of protest dressing in the recent street battles in Hong Kong to how young Asian women have been influenced by the social media campaigns to encourage wearing the veil in Indonesia, to Asian women negotiating femininity in political dress. Primary readership will be among researchers, scholars, educators and students in the fields of fashion, dress studies, women and gender studies and media and history. It will be of particular value as at graduate level and as a supplementary resource. There may be some general appeal to those with an interest in the women or cultures at the centre of the discussions.
Women & Fashion
Author: Caroline Evans
Publisher:
Published: 1989
Total Pages: 206
ISBN-13:
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →There are many new looks in fashion; here, at last, is a new look at fashion which focuses on the perplexing relationship between women, fashion and femininity: It brings together fashion and semiotics, psychoanalysis and style, interweaving the vocabulary of fashion literature with that of cultural studies and feminist theory. Helmut Newton's flashing model is contrasted with Deborah Tuberville's models of passive resistence, Jean Paul Gaultier's Dervish Bra with Elsa Schiaparelli's Shoe Hat, the cultural terrorism of punk in the 1970s with the postmodern bedlam of fashion in the 1980s. Analysing fashion at a level of representation, concerned more with images and ideas than with cut and fit, the authors make a series of sorties into fashion photography, design and cultural history, with centre around women, their bodies, and the pleasures and pains of fashion. An examination of attitudes to fashion in the early Women's Liberation Movement is followed by an analysis of how femininity has been appropriated and re-appropriated by women in the urban styles and subcultures of the 1970s and 1980s.
Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850-1920
Author: Patricia A. Cunningham
Publisher: Kent State University Press
Published: 2003
Total Pages: 274
ISBN-13: 9780873387422
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →This work focuses on the efforts toward reforming women's dress that took place in Europe and America in the latter half of the 18th century and the first decade of the 20th century, and the types of garments adopted by women to overcome the challenges posed by fashionable dress. It considers the many advocates for reform and examines their motives, their arguments for change, and how they promoted improvements in women's fashion. Though there was no single overarching dress reform movement, it reveals similarities among the arguments posed by diverse groups of reformers, including especially the equation of reform with an ideal image of improved health. Drawing on a variety of primary and secondary sources in the USA and Europe - including the popular press, advice books for women, allopathic and alternative medical literature, and books on aesthetics, art, health, and physical education - the text makes a significant contribution to costume studies, social history, and women's studies.
The Hidden History of American Fashion
Author: Nancy Deihl
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2018-02-08
Total Pages: 352
ISBN-13: 1350000485
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Women in Clothes
Author: Sheila Heti
Publisher: Penguin
Published: 2014-09-04
Total Pages: 804
ISBN-13: 0698189825
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →THE NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER Women in Clothes is a book unlike any other. It is essentially a conversation among hundreds of women of all nationalities—famous, anonymous, religious, secular, married, single, young, old—on the subject of clothing, and how the garments we put on every day define and shape our lives. It began with a survey. The editors composed a list of more than fifty questions designed to prompt women to think more deeply about their personal style. Writers, activists, and artists including Cindy Sherman, Kim Gordon, Kalpona Akter, Sarah Nicole Prickett, Tavi Gevinson, Miranda July, Roxane Gay, Lena Dunham, and Molly Ringwald answered these questions with photographs, interviews, personal testimonies, and illustrations. Even our most basic clothing choices can give us confidence, show the connection between our appearance and our habits of mind, express our values and our politics, bond us with our friends, or function as armor or disguise. They are the tools we use to reinvent ourselves and to transform how others see us. Women in Clothes embraces the complexity of women’s style decisions, revealing the sometimes funny, sometimes strange, always thoughtful impulses that influence our daily ritual of getting dressed.
A Matter of Style
Author: Paola Saltari
Publisher:
Published: 2018
Total Pages: 0
ISBN-13: 9788854413078
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →A Matter of Style documents the unforgettable lives of ten female icons of style and elegance who revolutionized the concept of femininity, captivated entire generations, and remain inspiring models of beauty. An extraordinary collection of photographs brings these women back to life: Coco Chanel, Katharine Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy, Mary Quant, Twiggy, and Lady Diana.
Whistler, Women, and Fashion
Author: Margaret F. MacDonald
Publisher: Yale University Press
Published: 2003
Total Pages: 243
ISBN-13: 9780300099065
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →This illustrated book and the associated exhibition at the Frick Collection examine Whistler's depiction of women and in particular the aspect of dress and fashion as important elements in his pictures. Several authors apply their talents as historians of art and costume to explore the place of dress in Whistler's oeuvre. Themes treated include Whistler the dandy, Victorian modes of dress, Oriental and Aesthetic Movement influences, female portraiture and the artist/model relationship.
Dressing Up
Author: Elizabeth L. Block
Publisher: MIT Press
Published: 2021-10-19
Total Pages: 291
ISBN-13: 0262365561
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →How wealthy American women--as consumers and as influencers--helped shape French couture of the late nineteenth century; lavishly illustrated. French fashion of the late nineteenth century is known for its allure, its ineffable chic--think of John Singer Sargent's Madame X and her scandalously slipping strap. For Parisian couturiers and their American customers, it was also serious business. In Dressing Up, Elizabeth Block examines the couturiers' influential clientele--wealthy American women who bolstered the French fashion industry with a steady stream of orders from the United States. Countering the usual narrative of the designer as solo creative genius, Block shows that these women--as high-volume customers and as pre-Internet influencers--were active participants in the era's transnational fashion system. Block describes the arrival of nouveau riche Americans on the French fashion scene, joining European royalty, French socialites, and famous actresses on the client rosters of the best fashion houses--Charles Frederick Worth, Doucet, and Félix, among others. She considers the mutual dependence of couture and coiffure; the participation of couturiers in international expositions (with mixed financial results); the distinctive shopping practices of American women, which ranged from extensive transatlantic travel to quick trips downtown to the department store; the performance of conspicuous consumption at balls and soirées; the impact of American tariffs on the French fashion industry; and the emergence of smuggling, theft, and illicit copying of French fashions in the American market as the middle class emulated the preferences of the rich. Lavishly illustrated, with vibrant images of dresses, portraits, and fashion plates, Dressing Up reveals the power of American women in French couture. Winner of the Aileen Ribeiro Grant of the Association of Dress Historians; an Association for Art History grant; and a Pasold Research Fund grant.
