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Author: Paul Theroux
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin
Published: 2021
Total Pages: 421
ISBN-13: 0358446287
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.
Author: Clark Little
Publisher: Ten Speed Press
Published: 2022-04-05
Total Pages: 241
ISBN-13: 1984859781
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
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Publisher: Patagonia
Published: 2013-10-06
Total Pages: 317
ISBN-13: 1938340086
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →Mickey Muñoz has been called the “surfer’s surfer,” and is loved and respected among the cognoscenti for his contributions to surfing and the surfing life for the past 60 years as a surfer, a pioneer of Waimea Bay, a stuntman (stand-in for Gidget), a board shaper and designer, and as a sailor and boatbuilder (America’s Cup). Mentored by the Malibu greats of the ’40s, and an influence on generations of surfers since, Mickey weaves the story of a California waterman using his own life and that of his friends.
Author: Andy Martin
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA
Published: 2008-12-01
Total Pages: 260
ISBN-13: 1596918527
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →'A classic tale of sporting rivalry' Observer 'The tales are gripping ... surfing emerges as a dangerous, solitary and potential fatal obsession' Telegraph 'A fascinating glimpse into obsession' Independent A gripping true story of a tragic and bitter rivalry in the world of surfing Winter. Mid-eighties. Hawai'i. Two surfers are battling for supremacy at Waimea Bay, home to the biggest waves in the world. Old-school, and some say too old, Ken Bradshaw commands respect with his fearlessness and fearsome temper. Mark Foo is the new kid on the block. Icon of the younger generation, this photogenic Chinese-American wows the crowds with his lightning repertoire of cool moves. One perfect day at Sunset Beach, Foo audaciously steals a wave from under Bradshaw's nose, sparking a bitter feud that is to last for over ten years and end in tragedy.
Author: Greg Noll
Publisher: North Atlantic Books
Published: 1989
Total Pages: 228
ISBN-13: 9781556431432
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →"Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn't much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women. Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone's era."--Amazon.com
Author: Paul Theroux
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Published: 2012
Total Pages: 361
ISBN-13: 0547746504
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →A taut, tense, darkly suspenseful novel about a man who flees to Africa after his marriage falls apart, only to be caught up in a precarious situation in a seemingly benign village.
Author: Paul Theroux
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Published: 2002-05-15
Total Pages: 473
ISBN-13: 0547526334
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →A writer turned Hawaiian hotel manager observes the many lives that pass through his rooms in this novel by the author of The Great Railway Bazaar. A New York Times Notable Book In this wickedly satiric romp, a down-on-his-luck writer finds escape from his life as the manager of a low-rent hotel a few blocks from the beach in Waikiki. His boss is quick to explain that the Hotel Honolulu is a multistory establishment—and the writer soon discovers just how many stories are contained in its walls. Honeymooners, vacationers, wanderers, mythomaniacs, soldiers, and families all check in. Like the Canterbury pilgrims, every guest has come in search of something, whether it’s sun, love, happiness, or objects of unnameable longing. And every guest—not to mention the staff, the owner, and the author himself—has a story. By turns hilarious, ribald, tender, and tragic, Hotel Honolulu offers a unique glimpse into the psychological landscape of an American paradise. “A sun-soaked Decameron.”—Chicago Sun-Times
Author: Stuart Holmes Coleman
Publisher: Macmillan
Published: 2004-02-07
Total Pages: 292
ISBN-13: 9780312327187
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a. Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. "Splendid...clear and fascinating."--Greg Ambrose, San Francisco Chronicle "Enlightening...an impressive history...of surfing...of Hawaiian culture both at home and across the world."--Matt Walker, Surfing Magazine "Eddie Aikau's life is a story waiting to be told, and it could not have been told any better than in Stuart Coleman's Eddie Would Go. This is a bestseller in the same way as the The Perfect Storm."--Peter Cole, Big-Wave Surfing Pioneer "It's amazing the impact Eddie had on the surfing world and Hawaii. It touches the community at a real grass-roots level."--Kelly Slater, World Champion Surfer "A meaningful biography of a surfing hero...extraordinary." -Terry Rogers, The San Diego Union-Tribune "Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man." -Terry Tomalin, The St. Petersburg Times "Fantastic...a treat to read."-Mark Cunningham, Honolulu Weekly
Author: Paul Theroux
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Published: 2006-06
Total Pages: 451
ISBN-13: 0618711961
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →Explores creative genius and fame through the life of a writer whose search for a muse has led him into dangerous and destructive places.
Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Published: 2005
Total Pages: 820
ISBN-13: 9780156032513
DOWNLOAD EBOOK →With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
