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Bustle Fashions, 1885-1887

Author: Frances Grimble

Publisher:

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 446

ISBN-13: 9780963651785

Bustle fashions 1885-1887 contains a wide selection of high-quality women's clothing patterns from the height of the bustle era. During these years, the waist was flattered by a closely fitted bodice, considerable fullness below the waist in back, and ample skirt draperies. This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and nightgowns; wrappers and tea gowns; bodices, skirts, and overskirts; complete ensembles for street and hose wear; and outer jackets, coats, dolmans, and cloaks. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of the magazine The Voice of Fashion and 1885 to 1887 editions of the pattern book The National Garment Cutter. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic. Most patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick's Delineator magazine. Each of these supplements shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat patterns alteration techniques, or merely by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Edited selections from fashion columns in The Delineator, Harpers Bazar, and other publications add information on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 208 trimmings and 91 accessories. In addition, a chapter on dressmaking, assembled from articles in Godey's Lady's Book, gives detailed information on making garments for the second half of the 1880s. The book's glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Bustle Fashions 1885-1887 is a pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.

Clothing through American History

Author: Anita Stamper

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA

Published: 2010-12-17

Total Pages: 424

ISBN-13: 0313084580

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Learn what men, women, and children have worn—and why—in American history, from the deprivations of the Civil War through the prosperous 1890s. In Clothing through American History: The Civil War through the Gilded Age, 1861–1899, authors Anita Stamper and Jill Condra provide information on fabrics, materials, and manufacturing; a discussion of daily life and dress; and the types of clothes worn by men, women, and children of all levels of society. The volume features numerous illustrations, helpful timelines, resource guides recommending Web sites, videos, and print publications, and extensive glossaries. Among the many topics discussed include: • The hours that middle class women of the nineteenth century spent making clothes for themselves and their families • The plain, rough clothes assigned to slaves to ensure that they did not enhance their appearance and their later trouble in buying clothes after emancipation • The Bloomer dress reform movement in the mid to late 19th century, where women who adopted loose, baggy trousers for practicality were called evil and unnatural • The beginnings of clothing and department stores

After a Fashion

Author: Frances Grimble

Publisher:

Published: 1998

Total Pages: 356

ISBN-13: 9780963651730

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After a Fashion covers medieval through Art Deco styles, for men and women. It guides readers through each stage of a reproduction project planning, designing, choosing materials, and constructing. It advises them on all aspects of collecting vintage clothes buying, restoring, altering, and wearing. The pattern-making and sewing instructions are useful to sewers at any experience level. Directions have been added for using the Internet to buy and sell, research styles, and contact costumers and collectors. An updated, expanded appendix lists over 600 sources (on-line and otherwise) for supplies, vintage clothes, and information.

The First Book of Fashion

Author: Ulinka Rublack

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Published: 2021-02-11

Total Pages: 421

ISBN-13: 1474249906

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This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, they chronicle how style-conscious accountant Matthäus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the sixteenth century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress – seemingly both ephemeral and trivial – is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of sixteenth-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits.

Accessorizing the Body

Author: Cristina Giorcelli

Publisher: U of Minnesota Press

Published: 2011

Total Pages: 280

ISBN-13: 0816675783

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What the smallest detail of dress reveals about gender, sexuality, race, politics, and aesthetics.

The Wars of Reconstruction

Author: Douglas R. Egerton

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA

Published: 2014-01-21

Total Pages: 552

ISBN-13: 1608195740

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A groundbreaking new history, telling the stories of hundreds of African-American activists and officeholders who risked their lives for equality-in the face of murderous violence-in the years after the Civil War. By 1870, just five years after Confederate surrender and thirteen years after the Dred Scott decision ruled blacks ineligible for citizenship, Congressional action had ended slavery and given the vote to black men. That same year, Hiram Revels and Joseph Hayne Rainey became the first African-American U.S. senator and congressman respectively. In South Carolina, only twenty years after the death of arch-secessionist John C. Calhoun, a black man, Jasper J. Wright, took a seat on the state's Supreme Court. Not even the most optimistic abolitionists thought such milestones would occur in their lifetimes. The brief years of Reconstruction marked the United States' most progressive moment prior to the civil rights movement. Previous histories of Reconstruction have focused on Washington politics. But in this sweeping, prodigiously researched narrative, Douglas Egerton brings a much bigger, even more dramatic story into view, exploring state and local politics and tracing the struggles of some fifteen hundred African-American officeholders, in both the North and South, who fought entrenched white resistance. Tragically, their movement was met by ruthless violence-not just riotous mobs, but also targeted assassination. With stark evidence, Egerton shows that Reconstruction, often cast as a “failure” or a doomed experiment, was rolled back by murderous force. The Wars of Reconstruction is a major and provocative contribution to American history.

Fashions of the Gilded Age: Evening, bridal, sports, outer wear, accessories, and dressmaking, 1877-1882

Author: Frances Grimble

Publisher:

Published: 2004

Total Pages: 582

ISBN-13:

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This set contains a complete wardrobe of authentic women's styles from the late 1870s and early 1880s. This "natural form" silhouette, with its slender bodice, graceful drapery, and flowing train, is one of the most elegant of the 19th century. It is a rich pattern source for those who create period costume for theater, film, living history, reenactment, bridal wear, or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors.

Clothing and Fashion in Southern History

Author: Ted Ownby

Publisher: Univ. Press of Mississippi

Published: 2020-07-23

Total Pages: 160

ISBN-13: 1496829522

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Contributions by Grace Elizabeth Hale, Katie Knowles, Ted Ownby, Jonathan Prude, William Sturkey, Susannah Walker, Becca Walton, and Sarah Jones Weicksel Fashion studies have long centered on the art and preservation of finely rendered garments of the upper class, and archival resources used in the study of southern history have gaps and silences. Yet, little study has been given to the approach of clothing as something made, worn, and intimately experienced by enslaved people, incarcerated people, and the poor and working class, and by subcultures perceived as transgressive. The essays in the volume, using clothing as a point of departure, encourage readers to imagine the South’s centuries-long engagement with a global economy through garments, with cotton harvested by enslaved or poorly paid workers, milled in distant factories, designed with influence from cosmopolitan tastemakers, and sold back in the South, often by immigrant merchants. Contributors explore such topics as how free and enslaved women with few or no legal rights claimed to own clothing in the mid-1800s, how white women in the Confederacy claimed the making of clothing as a form of patriotism, how imprisoned men and women made and imagined their clothing, and clothing cooperatives in civil rights–era Mississippi. An introduction by editors Ted Ownby and Becca Walton asks how best to begin studying clothing and fashion in southern history, and an afterword by Jonathan Prude asks how best to conclude.

Clothing Through American History

Author: Anita Stamper

Publisher:

Published:

Total Pages: 0

ISBN-13: 9781440880179

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Learn what men, women, and children have worn-and why-in American history, from the deprivations of the Civil War through the prosperous 1890s. In Clothing through American History: The Civil War through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899, authors Anita Stamper and Jill Condra provide information on fabrics, materials, and manufacturing; a discussion of daily life and dress; and the types of clothes worn by men, women, and children of all levels of society. The volume features numerous illustrations, helpful timelines, resource guides recommending Web sites, videos, and print publications, and extensive glossaries. Among the many topics discussed include: • The hours that middle class women of the nineteenth century spent making clothes for themselves and their families • The plain, rough clothes assigned to slaves to ensure that they did not enhance their appearance and their later trouble in buying clothes after emancipation • The Bloomer dress reform movement in the mid to late 19th century, where women who adopted loose, baggy trousers for practicality were called evil and unnatural • The beginnings of clothing and department stores.

Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889

Author: Frances Grimble

Publisher:

Published: 2010

Total Pages: 563

ISBN-13: 9780963651792

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Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 contains an in-depth selection of high-quality women's clothing patterns from the end of the bustle era. During these years, picturesque styles evoking the late 18th and early 19th centuries were popular. The silhouette progressively deflated from one with considerable back fullness and puffy draperies to the comparatively narrow one of the early 1890s. This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and morning wear; wrappers and tea gowns; skirts and overskirts; ensembles consisting of a bodice, skirt, and draperies; ensembles consisting of a polonaise and a skirt; house, street, and evening dresses; outfits for lawn tennis and riding; and outer jackets, coats, and wraps. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of The Voice of Fashion magazine. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic. Many patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick's Delineator magazine. Each supplement shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat pattern alteration techniques, or by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Selections from fashion columns in The Delineator and Harper's Bazar, and from a circa 1890 dressmaking manual, add information on construction and on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 34 trimmings and 85 accessories. The book's glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. Directoire Revival Fashions 1888-1889 is a rich pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It's a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers.